Why This Watch Matters

An unusual Universal Genève with a wooden dial that's even rarer due to the Van Cleef & Arpels retailer signature at six o'clock.

The Full Story

Universal Genève has always been one of our favorite brands in the HODINKEE Shop. The company produced many styles of watches over the years, from wonderfully simple dress watches to rugged tool watches and everything in between. What keeps Universal Genève watches interesting is the large number of known case and dial configurations.

Case in point: take a look at this "wood"-dial dress watch. The design is overall simple and elegant, fitted in a sleek stainless steel case with a manually wound movement inside. The main draw, without a doubt, is the wooden dial. This version has the chunky "U" logo at 12 o'clock and, right above six o'clock, you can see the "VAN CLEEF & ARPELS" retailer signature printed in white. 

Van Cleef & Arpels was established in 1906, at 22 Place Vendôme, in Paris, a street which today remains the epitome of French luxury and elegance. The firm grew into one of the world's premier jewelers, creating exquisite pieces for royal families and celebrities, including Elizabeth Taylor, who was known to have a penchant for exquisite pieces of jewelry. 

The number of known watches with the double Universal Genève and Van Cleef & Arpels signature is very small. To see this unusual looking watch retailed at the prestigious Van Cleef & Arpels store, among all its astonishing jewelry pieces, must have been quite a sight in the 1970s! 

The Fine Print

Maker: Universal Genève
Reference: 842101
Year: 1970s 
Case No: 2912222, H31-19
Material: Stainless steel 
Dimensions: 31mm diameter; 6mm thickness 
Crystal: Plexiglass 
Lume: No
Caliber: Universal Genève, manual-wound, caliber 42
Bracelet/Strap: Black calfskin leather 
 Lug Width: 16mm
Box/Papers: No

What we Love and What You Should Know

This watch is overall in very good condition. This watch recently had a full movement service. The case remains strong with light scratches. The numbers are clearly visible on the caseback. The dial is in mint condition, with the "Swiss" signature at the outermost edge at six o'clock. The dial is either made of wood, or simply has the appearance of wood. Either way, it's extremely uncommon. The hour markers and the hands show some signs of light patina. The case, dial, movement, and the crown are all signed by Universal Genève.